We had no plan, so which direction to choose in China? National Parks are abundant, and high on our wish-list, but choices have to be made in this huge country. We arrived in Beijing with the Transmongolia Express all the way from Amsterdam, and after seeing some of the mandatory sights, we took the train heading West with the Tibetan plateau as our destination. We liked and disliked China at the same time. While the food was very tasty, it got boring very quickly for us vegetarians, and we regularly found pieces of pork in our food. After 3 weeks the pollution gave us extreme coughs. And in the National Parks the Chinese move in large, very large crowds and there is no way to escape. Nevertheless, we met very humble and kind people, the nature is astonishing and the Tibetan plateau was a rich and mysterious experience.