We skipped all the nightbuses in Burma (in fact during our whole year in Asia), and took the local bus, the boat, the rickshaws and went by foot. It brought us to very special people and places.
A mysterious place and while quite touristy it is easy to escape this, especially if you explore by bicycle. Old temple-ruins everywhere you look. We criss-crossed the area for three days, beating the heat (end of March) and watching sunsets from lonesome temples. One of the most romantic places in the world.